Jane Garvey’s Monthly Dozen: Holiday Wines

Tasting Note:
This all-around crowd-pleaser is a California Chardonnay that performs well as an aperitif wine and goes well with food. Blended 86% Chardonnay, with 7% Viognier, 5% Chenin Blanc and 2% Malvasia Bianca, the wine at first blush seems to have a fair hit of oak. While most of the oak is French, 10% is American, yet it doesn’t overwhelm the fruit. The wine shows a definite medium-deep yellow golden color, and the aromas tell the story, showing both good fruit (baked apple) and some oak, along with the scent of crème brûlée. Oak and fruit (apple, pear, some citrus) are well integrated, and the fruit characters aren’t intimidated by it. Decent acidity helps add balance. More food accommodating than I initially thought would be the case. Very fine value for serving a crowd. The series also has a Pinot Noir, a Petite Sirah and a Cabernet Sauvignon, but I thought the Chardonnay showed the best. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Shrimp in garlic and unsalted butter/olive oil; crab cakes; baked crab-stuffed flounder; King crab with lemon butter for dipping; creamy; grilled, poached or sautéed scallops; shrimp and grits, grits cakes with creamed chicken; chicken salad; chicken pot pie; chicken croquetas (Spanish style). Don’t do it with oysters, however.

Distributors:
Georgia Crown

$12.00

Tasting Note:
For anyone who enjoys a serious California-style Chardonnay, this is a good selection. Although only 20% of the barrels are new French oak, the wine shows a good bit of oak influence, having been kept in barrel for 22 months. The grapes were grown in Chiles Valley, an AVA located within Napa Valley. It was bottled in late 2011, yet the oak has still not diminished. High (relatively) in alcohol at 15.4%, the wine has a definite preference for being enjoyed on its own rather than with food. Full-bodied and with a bright greenish gold color, the wine offers an oak-influenced aroma that also lets through hints of crème brûlée and pineapple. The palate shows a creamy character, with oak, citrus and pineapple. Brisk acidity supplies a clean, crisp finish. Serve in large tulip-shaped glasses at about 55F/13C.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Although the winery likes this wine with seafood, I didn’t think that worked very well, particularly not with oysters, although it might do well with a creamy shrimp and grits. But what did work especially well was chicken pot pie, so turkey pot pie would too. Also turkey tettrazini; creamed chicken over polenta; poulet à la crème. The winery also recommends chicken picatta, which makes sense with a good bit of lemon.

Distributors:
Global Wines

$25.00

Tasting Note:
This well-balanced late-harvest Riesling from Washington’s Columba Valley is a classic, and Hogue has captured the essence of the genre in its version vintage after vintage. While it will be too sweet for anyone totally devoted to dry wines, wine enthusiasts with a broader palate will find it delightful. What makes this work and not strike one like a liquefied lollipop is the acidity, which hits .75g/100ml. Then, the ph is low, 3.18, which adds to the sensation of acidity against fruit. Showing a medium pale yellow color, the wine offers aromas of quince, Asian pear apple and aromas of honey. On the palate, the fruit is crisp and clean, and the sweetness is integral to the fruit characters: apricot; lemon-lime; honey and apple. Complex, showing a hint of minerality, the wine is a fine contribution to the genre. Excellent value. Serve at 55F/13C. Could be cellared for a further 3-5 years.

Suggested Food Pairings:
As an aperitif with foie gras; chicken liver mousse; grilled skewered chicken livers. Also spicy Asian fare; creamy blue cheeses, such as Cambozola with pear or apple; mild curried dishes; Dutch apple pie; baked apples with cream; apple fritters.

Distributors:
National Distributing Co.

$12.00

Tasting Note:
Located in Oregon’s Illinois Valley, Foris tends some of the state’s oldest (1974) Gewürztraminer (pronounced gah-VURTS-trah-mee-ner, although you will also hear geh-vurts-TRAH-me-ner, but that’s a bit precious). The grape comes from Tramin, in northern Italy, which was originally Austria but ceded to Italy after World War I. Although most examples are off-dry, Foris prefers a dry style. Showing a medium pale yellow color, the wine offers the classic lychee nut aromas (lychee nuts and Gewürztraminer share some aroma compounds). Orange zest with some suggestion of floral notes (more orange blossom in this case than the classic rose petal), exotic spices such as nutmeg and cardamom are all shaping the aromas. On the palate, Asian pear apple, nectarine and kumquat contribute to the flavors along with some exotic spices, again cardamom. The fleshy texture, crisp, dry, long finish and mouthwatering acidity are all part of the delight. Serve in tall tulip-shaped glasses at about 50-55F/10-13C.

Suggested Food Pairings:
All manner of exotic flavors, but begin with roast turkey and cornbread dressing (no sage); lightly curried potato salad; for leftovers, curried turkey with toasted almonds, dried apricots and currants on brown rice; roast pork loin with apple-bread stuffing (no sage); Indian dishes with poultry and seafood, but not too hot; curried turkey or chicken salad with raisins, almonds and green pepper; rich, assertively flavored (downright stinky) cheeses, such as French Münster.

Distributors:
Quality Wine & Spirits

$16.00

Tasting Note:
Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha (20%) from Rioja Alta join forces to produce this dry, crisp rosado (rosé). An ideal choice (hang the weather!) for parties and festive occasions, rosé has a fine ability to pair with food, making it perfect for a holiday buffet. This example shows a brilliant reddish pink color, thanks to brief maceration of the fruit with the juice. On the aromas, cotton candy, watermelon and candied apple introduce flavors that evoke red fruit notes, from watermelon to red raspberry. The fruit is fresh and sweet, but fruit sweet, not residual sugar sweet, and the finish is crisp and dry, so banish any thoughts you may have had of pink being necessarily sweet. This is a great introduction to the genre for anyone convinced otherwise about pink wines, yet it will please those who muddle rosés and blush wines. Excellent value. Serve at 55F/13C, in tall, medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Blackened seafood salad; turkey picadillo; grilled chicken salad with chipotle peppers (but not too hot); mild curried potato salad and other mild curried dishes; rosemary ham; speck; sorpressata (and other cured meats); baked ham; ham croquetas (Spanish style); wings; paella; Cajun deep-fried turkey; baked beans (if not too sweet), roast pork tenderloin; fajitas.

Distributors:
Empire Distributing

$9.00

Tasting Note:
What luck: A Sauternes from the highly regarded 2009 vintage. This example is just delicious, and what a value!. A blend of Semillon (70%) and Sauvignon Blanc (30%), the wine starts off in stainless steel tanks before being finished in French oak. Full-bodied, it shows a lovely greenish lemon yellow color. The aromas convey scents of dried apricots and honey, while on the palate, flavors focus on dried apricot, with notes of cardamom, honey, and nectarine. Serve at 55F/13C in small, tulip-shaped glasses. This one is new to the Atlanta market. An amazing value for this genre. Serve in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
As an aperitif with foie gras, chicken liver mousse or soufflé of roquefort. For dessert, a simple cookie, creamy blue cheese (Fourme d’Ambert), Cambozola melted with sautéed pear and cream, sweet potato tart; classic panna cotta; Dutch apple pie; dessert with toasted hazelnuts; apple stack cake, lemon tart.

Distributors:
Gusto Brands

$30.00

Tasting Note:
Beaujolais (pronounced bow-jho-lay) may well be the ideal Thanksgiving wine. It should be served cool, giving emphasis to the fruit, so it tends to please a wide range of palates. And it goes well with a wide variety of foods, including that turkey. The 2009 vintage is one of the best in France, as well as elsewhere. This Beaujolais-Villages is 100% Gamay noir but it tastes much deeper and more full-bodied than most. In fact, it nearly tastes like a cru. Oh, there’s a reason for that. A touch of two crus is blended in: Morgon, lending structure, and Régnié for roundness. This example shows a deep ruby red color, with a violet edge. Aromas focus on vibrant dark plums and brown spices. The palate presents dark fruit flavors–plums and black cherries–with round, soft tannins wrapping the whole business in a delectable experience. Please be sure to serve this slightly chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Smoked liverwurst (Patak); liver mousse; saucisson de Lyon (dried is usually available here); blackened seafood salad (Whole Foods); coq au vin made with Beaujolais; roast turkey, chicken, duck or goose; lamb cooked in Beaujolais; confit of duck; veal sweetbreads with country ham; roast ham; brie de Meaux (at room temperature); dark chocolate.

Distributors:
Prime

$19.00

Tasting Note:
Chinon is one of the appellations of the Loire Valley, that super long (1000 miles) river that runs between Nantes on the west coast and Orleans. These vines are what the French call “young vines,“ but they’re about 15 years old! As with any Chinon, this one is 100% Cabernet Franc. This medium-bodied dry red wine exhibits aromas of red and black fruits–raspberry and black currant–with notes of herb and black tea. On the palate, look for supple tannins enfolding ample fruit and brown baking spice notes. The long finish is enhanced by good fruit-acid balance. This is a wine to be drunk young, so enjoy it now, and don’t cellar. This was a great vintage in France, and elsewhere. Serve cool to emphasize the fruit, about a 58-60F/14-15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Smoked fresh liverwurst (Patak); sautéed chicken livers splashed with some of the wine, on toast; roast turkey, chicken or duck; roast pork loin; smoked chicken; Asian dishes especially Chinese with red meats (not too hot); barbecue; turkey thighs cooked with prunes and tomato; grilled sausages.

Distributors:
Gusto Brands

$14.00

Tasting Note:
From Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean, Mantilari is one of the Crete’s native red wine grapes. It produces a deeply colored, inky dark, full-boded red wine whose aromas lean toward juicy black fruits, along plum and black currant characters. The same traits come into focus on the palate, adding a trace of blueberry to the big, juicy sweet fruit profile. Moderate alcohol is just 12.5%. The tannins are big but not aggressive, and indeed present a succulent juiciness that’s truly delectable. Rich, concentrated and intense, it’s a wine for lots of occasions, not just Greek Christmas (January 7, 2013). Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Pátés and terrines; roast turkey stuffed with ground lamb; roast duck,, pork, goose or pheasant; wild boar; furred game; stuffing with chestnuts and dried dark fruits in any bird.

Distributors:
Empire Distributing

$20.00

Tasting Note:
Ernesto Catena is the son of renowned winemaker Nicolás Catena. Striking out on his own, he digs deeply into the Quechua (Inca) culture of the Andes, so the word “Tahuantinsuyu” references a Quechua attempt to unify the Andean peoples. Catena has about 116 planted acres n the Uco Valley (Mendoza) at his organic Vistaflores Vineyard., sitting at 3576 feet above sea level. The grapes for this Malbec are fermented then aged in American and French oak. Aromas of coffee and vanilla with some herbal notes leap from the glass in this intense, dark, full-bodied wine with a purple/red color. On the palate, the wine exhibits solid black fruit characters, tilting toward Damson plum, and soft tannins lend support to the ample, voluptuous fruit. Good acidity enhances the super long finish. This Malbec will take your understanding of the grape to a whole new level. Yum! Cool room temperature is the best serving circumstance, and decanting the wine perhaps 20-30 minutes before serving might be a good plan. Keep the temperature around 60F/15C. This is just delicious, and if well cellared, should last another half dozen years at least.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Smoked foods; terrines; beef-filled empanadas; grilled sweetbreads and kidneys; roast turkey with bread stuffing; grilled duck breast, lamb; grilled beef (get an Argentnian short rib, called “asado” at any carnicería) with chimichurri (minced parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil, red wine vinegar, lime and salt); prime rib; grilled lamb steak; legumes; mild blue cheese (Cambozola, Fourme d’Ambert); dark chocolate.

Distributors:
Prime Wine & Spirits

$25.00

Tasting Note:
Austrian-born Rudi Bauer did his academic work at home, but then worked harvests and with wineries all over the world before settling on New Zealand’s South Island, where he has even planted Austria’s icon grape Grüner Veltliner. Devoted to sparkling wine (see next month) and the Pinots (both Gris and Noir), Bauer produces a limited range of wines that garner international admiration. This example, from the Bendigo estate in Central Otago, shows a deep garnet red color. Initially closed, it took very little time for the wine to open, showing the classic dried herb (thyme) aromas one looks for in New Zealand Pinot Noir. You’ll never mistake this for an Oregon Pinot Noir, with its upfront cherry fruit. Instead, restrained fruit and herb are its hallmarks. The palate continues the herb character, and adds dark berries and brown spices to the profile. Tannins are soft, and although the alcohol is a relatively high 14%, the wine is smooth and the finish silky and long, ending in an explosion of spice. Serve cool, about 65F/17C, in round Burgundy glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Silky, smooth chicken liver mousse; roast and smoked chicken (especially the latter); grilled lamb, duck breast or quail; feathered and furred game; roast turkey (both white and dark meat) with sage cornbread dressing; crown roast of veal or pork; rabbit or chicken with mushrooms (ideally wild mushrooms); ragoût of mushrooms over polenta or grits; New Zealand cheddar (Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s) or brie de Meaux; dark chocolate.

Distributors:
Avant Partir

$35.00

Tasting Note:
Alexander Valley has long been a favorite source for me for Cabernet Sauvignon. This example comes from fruit organically grown at high elevations on hillsides above the valley, elements that contribute substantially to quality, intensity, extraction, color and flavor–all the things we look for in a good, sturdy red wine. But we also want balance, and that’s what you get in this full-bodied wine, which is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon (just above the 75% limit t hat allows it still to be so called), 21% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. The aromas concentrate on red and dark fruits, from cherry to black currant, all well knit, and with a hint of oak on the nose. Oak and fruit are well balanced on the palate, along with notes of brown baking spices, and the tannins are sweet and soft. The long finish ends with a slightly oak-influenced and dried herb note, but the fruit never loses its voice. The 2010 (not tasted) now is in release and available on the winery‘s web site (capturewines.com), but 2009 is what’s in this market. Limited production: 254 cases. Serve cool, about 60F/15C, in wide, round Bordeaux glasses or large tulip-shaped Bordeaux glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Smoked liverwurst (Patak); smooth-textured liver pâtés; assorted cured meats (Pine Street Market or The Spotted Trotter); prime rib; stout-braised beef shanks over mashed potatoes; grilled duck breast seasoned with cinnamon; roast duck, goose or other feathered game; furred game (buffalo, elk); mild, creamy blue cheeses; dark chocolate.

Distributors:
Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co.

$40.00