Jane Garvey’s Monthly Dozen: New to Atlanta

Tasting Note:
From northwestern Portugal comes a new entry into the Vinho Verde (vee-nyu vair-d’) category. While most people associate this wine with summer enjoyment, I say if you’re having scallops, why choose something else? Nonetheless, all Vinho Verde must be enjoyed in its youth; it is not a wine for cellaring. That said, sit back and relax and enjoy a mediu-bodied, slightly off-dry, slightly spritzy whte wine with a pale straw color. The grapes are Loureiro 85%, Trajadura 7.5%, Arinto 7.5%, all traditional in the region, Portugal’s largest winegrowing region, lying between the Minho and the Duoro rivers. Lemon-lime aromas set the benchmark for this refreshing, moderate alcohol (10.5%) wine. Brisk acidity runs through the palate, which again presents lemon-lime characters. The slight pétillance (fizzy) character adds to the fresh sensation. Serve cold, about 45F/7C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
All shellfish and seafood; baked or grilled sheepshead (a great, mild inexpensive fish, at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market) with tartar sauce; grilled fresh sardines (also at BHFM) with lemon, very Portuguese; Thai curry shrimp salad and similar composed seafood salads; sautéed soft-shell crab with almonds; coconut shrimp with apricot-mustard sauce; bacalao fritters; deviled crab; fresh goat cheese with fresh herbs.

Distributors:
Georgia Crown

$10.00

Tasting Note:
If you dislike Chardonnay because of its frequently over-oaked California character, have a look at how it’s done in France. Specifically, in Burgundy. This example, showing a medum greenish-gold color, is made from grapes coming off 40-year-old vines (average), so that’s one thing that makes a difference. Aging on the lees in stainless steel tanks also makes a difference. Indigenous yeast, tricky to handle, is another part of the story. This wine sees no oak, so that keeps the freshness of the fruit intact. The aromas offer spirited citrus and floral characters. On the palate, the texture is silky and sensuous. Flavors continue the citrus notes that shape the aromas, with good acid backbone and plenty of minerality. The finish is long and ends with a clean, crisp wrap-up. The wine is certified “biologique,” which goes beyond organic. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55F/10-12C n medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses or medium Burgundy glasses.(slightly oval).

Suggested Food Pairings:
Nothing over-spiced or over-seasoned. Gratin of scallops with Gruyère crumbs and piped mashed potatoes; creamy seafood casseroles; veal chops Dijonnaise (Dijon mustard cream sauce); rabbit or chicken in mustard sauce with wide noodles; shrimp and grits with a creamy garlic sauce (but go easy on the garlic); baked mild white fish with butter, crumbs and fresh herbs; crab meaet-stuffed flounder, baked; crab cakes; poached chicken breast with cream sauce.

Distributors:
Georgia Crown

$24.00

Tasting Note:
Pronounce that “doe-ceys,” referencing the fact that there are two grapes represented in this wine: Macabeo (a/k/a Viura) and Sauvignon Blanc. There also a 2es red. Chozas Carrascal sits just about 40 minutes outside of Valencia on Spain’s eastern coast in San Antonio de Requena. Tall cypress trees introduce the property just where the vines begin to trail up the slope to meet the horizon. A medium-bodied dry white wine, 2es shows a medium deep golden straw color. Aromas focus on tropical fruit, with hints of lemon flowers, mango and papaya. The palate shows good integration of the two grape types, with melded flavors that still suggest tropical fruits. Good acidity for balanc also helps the wine pair well with food. We tasted this with a variety of seafood dishes in Spain, but now I’m seeing how it will do outside its comfort zone. And the results are good! Excellent value. Serve chilled, about 55F/12C, and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Fried calamari with lemon aïoli; salt-and-pepper squid; Chinese peanut chicken; coconut shrimp with apricot mustard dipping sauce; butternut squash ravioli with sautéed apple and sage; egg fu yung and sauce; Thai curry shrimp salad.

Distributors:
Eagle Rock

$10.00

Tasting Note:
Alsace, France, once part of Germany, is home to lots of good wines, but especially to Riesling. François and Geneviève Barmès–Buecher is her maiden name–joined vineyards that have been in their respective families for hundreds of years. A very contemporary couple attuned to modern methods, the pair has converted the vineyards to biodynamic methods. The payoff is a dry, full-boded white wine of finesse and character, with a fine acid backbone and a super long finish. Even wine enthusiasts who are skeptical about Riesling would find this one hard to resist. A medium-deep golden straw color with greenish tones and aromas of yellow fruits with hints of lemon zest set the stage. Luscious fruit defines the palate, which provides plenty of minerality balanced with soft rich fruit. I prefer this one not so cold, about 60F/15C, because too much cold completely masks its richness and complexity. Good candidate for cellaring at cool temperatures.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Asian dishes such as Thai curry shrimp or chicken dishes; Chinese peanut chicken; black-and-white calamari; Caribbean-influenced dishes, such as coconut shrimp with apricot-mustard sauce, curry chicken meat patties. Smoked pork belly or pork chop with whole-grain mustard, roasted cabbage and mashed potatoes; fried or roast chicken. Winery suggests veal sweetbreads, and we’d love to try that with this wine.

Distributors:
Georgia Crown

$35.00

Tasting Note:
There’s a lot here that needs explaining. First, the wine is from Savoie, an appellation in eastern France close to Switzerland. Remember the 1992 Winter Olympic Games in Albertville? Well, voilà. Savoie also abuts Italy. As in Switzerland, crisp, clean white wines are a big deal here. This also is dairy country (Tomme). So rich cheeses and white wine go hand in hand. Chignin Bergeron is a cru of vin de Savoie, the basic appellation. The village is Chignin, and Bergeron is the local name for Roussanne, the Rhône varietal that entirely composes this wine. It’s medium greenish yellow color, aromas of fresh yellow stone fruits (apricot especially), with a slight hint of almond that continues through the palate. Fleshy, ripe, and rich with good acidity, the wine delivers flavors of fresh apricot and a long, crisp finish. Serve fairly cool, about 45-50F/8-10C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses..

Suggested Food Pairings:
Rich fare: Crumbed veal sweetbreads with sautéed pear; roast chicken with fresh garlic stuffed under the skin; fish with a saffron cream sauce; grilled (but still slightly rare) scallops with mustard sauce; coquilles Saint Jacques with piped mashed potatoes and cheese crumbs; mussels with garlic butter; cheese fondue; some mild Asian dishes (egg fu yung; Chinese minced chicken balls); mild chicken curry salad; veal in cream sauce with saffron and mushrooms (really good).

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$23.00

Tasting Note:
This Napa Valley limited-production (925 cases) dry white wine is a veritable fruit salad: Sauvignon Blanc (48%); Chardonnay (26%); Viognier (13%); Vermentino (8%); and Albariño (5%), a blend that’s completely different from the 2010, which also contained some Chenn Blanc. Production is just 925 cases, so there’s not much of this quite refined, interesting medium-to-full-bodied wine. Dry, with an aroma of exotic, tropical yellow fruits–especially pineapple–the wine shows a slight canned green pea note offered probably by the Sauvignon Blanc. Of all the varieties, the Sauvignon Blanc is the only one fermented in neutral (old) oak. The rest are done in stainless steel, providing a clean, vibrant, fresh yellow fruit character, backed up by good acidity and minerality. The palate is nearly seamless, so you can’t really distinguish one fruit component from another. Suffice it to say, the experience focuses on fresh, yellow stone fruits with a bit of pineapple and other tropical tones. Rich and exotic, it seems to work well as a cocktail wine or with a full meal.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Mousse of foie gras; white pizza (try buffalo milk mozzarella, thinly sliced Yukon Gold potatoes, pesto, thinly sliced Vidalia onion and arugula, one of my favorites); roast chicken; chicken pot pie or empanada (Galician style); coconut shrimp; Thai curry shrimp salad; ginger-garlic wings; cottage pie made with chicken; roast Cornish game hen; simple grilled or roasted mild fish (swordfish). I’d like to try it with cream of asparagus soup. Maybe a chilled one, rather than hot.

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$30.00

Tasting Note:
Jean Marie Truchard, John Anthony’s great grandfather, attempted to grow grapes and make wine in Texas, despite the humidity. His grandson and great grandson (John Anthony) bought land in Napa, restoring winemaking to the family heritage, as Truchard Vineyards. John Anthony now makes wine under his own label. The late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc we’re getting is the 2005 vintage, giving us the wonderful opportunity to taste one of these with a bit of age on it. Full-bodied, with a deep greenish golden hue, the wine emits sweet aromas of pineapple and lemon drop. The key to any sweet wine is acidity, and this one has plenty of it, giving the substantial sugar a terrific kick and taking it well out of the range of the liquified lollipop. On the palate, the flavors are lemon drop and candied pineapple, and the acidity pushes the finish into significant length. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C in small tulip-shaped glasses. Could cellar further if held at 55F/13C. It’s fun to watch these evolve.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Foie gras, just sautéed–no crazy fruit embellishments, please; mousse of foie gras or other poultry liver; creamy blue cheeses (Fourme d‘Ambert; Gorgonzola dolce); lemon desserts (not too sweet); simple cookie (Madeleine or langue de chat).

Distributors:
Georgia Crown

$54.00

Tasting Note:
If you want a fabulous lunchtme wine, or a wine with light meals, Bardolino, usually moderate in alcohol, is the choice of choice. Named for a charming town east of Lake Garda, the wine is produced in the province of Verona. Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara are the classic grapes, although other specific ones (among them Sangiovese and Barbera) now may be included but can’t exceed 20% in the aggregate The Classico zone surrounds the town of Bardolino, as well as Garda and several others. As with most wines in the genre, this is a light-bodied dry red wine, although this example shows a fairly deep purple red color, deeper than most. Corvina probably leads the pack, therefore. Aromas present candied red cherries, while the palate shows soft tannin and juicy red fruit flavors–red cherrry and red plum–and the finish brings out a note of almond/marzipan. Best served cool, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Terrific value.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Best with light- to medium-bodied foods. Black olives; sandwiches or wraps with smoked or cured meats; grilled sausages; roast Cornish hen or sautéed quail; barbecued or fried chicken; wings; smoked pork belly or chicken; grilled duck breast with fig jam/balsamic glaze; young (not aged) Taleggio cheese or mild creamy cheeses. This is rather an odd intersection of cuisine and culture, but it’s terrific with South African bobotie (a sort of lamb meat loaf with dried fruits, curry and a custardy topping).

Distributors:
Bacco Fine Wine

$15.00

Tasting Note:
Never mind how French this looks; the wines are from Mendoza, Argentina! But the owner/winemaker is French, originally from Carcassonne, southeast of Toulouse. Jean Bousquet went to Argentina in 1997, and planted in a remote area (no water, no roads, no electricity) in 1998. His first harvest was in 2002. And it’s organic. The entire line has come into the Atlanta market, and you’ll find it floor stacked at Fresh Market, although apart from the wine department, so you may have to ask (as I did) where to find it. This full-bodied dry red wine comes with a garnet red color and smoky, meaty aromas that have a floral hint, somewhere between violet and lilac along with sweet, dark fruit characters. On the palate, that dark fruit character takes control, and fairly bursts through with delicious, juicy fruit flavors. Tannins are soft, and the wine leaves the palate wanting another sip. Acidity is on target, and well balanced with the fruit. Only the alcohol seems just a little out of kilter, and dominates the finish. To tame it, a cool temperature is most important, about 65F/18C. Choose a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Great value.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Argentina = beef, right? Barbecued beef brisket with a mild tomato-based, spicy but not hot barbecue sauce; steak; standing rib roast; cold roast beef sandwich; matahambre (rolled, stuffed flank steak–a classic Argentine dish); grilled sweetbreads, kidneys and (if you’re adventurous and/or Southern) chinchulines–or chitterlings. But don’t stop there: smoked pork belly; barbecued chicken; empanadas stuffed with beef or black beans; vegetarian legume dishes.

Distributors:
Empire Distributing

$11.00

Tasting Note:
From northeast Italy n the Venezia-Giulia comes this full-bodied dry red wine produced from vines that average 40 years. Showing a medium-deep ruby color, it’s made entirely from Cabernet Franc. Aromas of aromatic spce and dark fruit prepare the palate for the wine’s mouthwatering luscous dark fruit and spice. Soft tannins, a lingering finish and finely tuned acid-fruit balance compose an elegant experience. Stainless steel fermentation and aging along with bottle aging ensure fruit quality. Cool to about 65F/15C and decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving. Potential for cellaring a further 4-5 years at a constant temperature.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Pàté forestière (with mushrooms), black olives; duck breast rubbed with nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, salt and pepper, balsamic glaze; fajitas with beef; sautéed portobello mushrooms; grilled lamb steak or shoulder chop; meat-filled ravioli with reduced meat stock sauce; mild creamy cheeses.

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$30.00

Tasting Note:
Costières de Nîmes never lets me down. Once considered part of Languedoc, it’s been enfolded into the Rhône since 2004. Exquisitely historic, Nîmes is a former Roman city called Nemausus where Roman soldiers who served for 15 years in the army were gifted parcels of land in the region, perhaps laying the foundation for its viticulture. The cháteau dates to the 17th century. Syrah leads the composition of this sturdy dry red wine (65%), with Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre (5%) filling in the rest. Its deep ruby red color with bluish hints and meaty aromas (a sure sign of Syrah) lead to a rewarding palate experience that presents plenty of fresh black fruits–especially black currants. Syrah’s black pepper graces the finish, along with hints of brown baking spices. Round, with supple tannins and good acidity, this is a wine for many meals and occasions. Potential for cellaring a further 2-3 years. Just excellent, and a very fine value. Serve at about 65F/18F in large tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Coarse-textured meat terrines; roasted pink leg of lamb; South African bobotie, so probably any aromatic lamb stew or ground lamb casserole; mild curries with meat; duck rubbed with aromatic spices and a fig/balsamic glaze; smoked pork belly or other smoked meats or poultry, firm, aged cheeses.

Distributors:
Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC

$16.00

Tasting Note:
Alexander Valley n Sonoma County, Ca, does it again. This f ull-bodied dry red wine shows a medum-deep cherry red color. Aromas suggest dark fruits–plums and black currants–while the palate embraces fresh dark fruits and soft tannins. The balance, elegance and integraton of fruit, acid and tannin are just spot on. Alexander Valley shows its stuff here, with superb dark berry fruit. The alcohol is fairly high (14.5%), yet the wne doesn’t “read” hot. Just lovely. Able to be cellared for another decade or so, depending on the condition of the bottle being stored, if kept at cool temperatures. Serve at cellar temperature, about 55-60F/13-15C, in large tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Coarse-textured terrines, pâté forestière (wth mushrooms) cider-brined pork chop (Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates); grilled duck breast rubbed with nutmet, cinnamon, cardamom, salt and pepper, balsamc glaze; grilled bone-in rib-eye; sautéed portobello mushrooms, grilled lamb steak, mild cheeses, especially creamy blues.

Distributors:
Global Wines

$75.00