Jane Garvey’s Monthly Dozen: Wines for Grilling & Summerfare

Tasting Note:
From Monsant, a D.O in the region of Tarragona, Cataluña, Spain, comes this full-bodied dry white wine made entirely from Garnatxa blanca (as they say in that part of the Iberian Peninsula in the Catalan language). Although the grape is important in selected wite Rhône wines, it’s likely to have originated in northeastern Spain. A mutation of Grenache noir, it then crossed the Pyrenees along with its darker sibling and took root especially in Roussillon, where nearly half of its plantings are to be found today. This full-bodied example is typically high in alcohol (14%), and presents a medium greenish cast overlooking a medium golden color. Aromas focus on citrus zest and fresh green herbs, while on the palate, the wine seems silky–even unctuous–and delivers some heat in the rather long finish Flavors pick up notes of chalky minerality. Even though its alcohol is high, this is a wine that can work well with more substantial summer dishes. For most people, serving it at 50F/10C will be good, but I prefer it a little closer to room temperature.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Pork rilletes with whole-grain mustard; fried chicken fingers and honey mustard sauce; fried or baked fish with tartar sauce; creamy Vidalia onion casserole; salmon cake with tartar sauce; grilled scallops with lemon aïoli, chicken pot pie.

Distributors:
Artisan Vines

$20.00

Tasting Note:
Although Pinot Grigio from other regions is very popular, the best of the lot come from those zones that are in colder areas so the wines develop acidity. That’s the case with this example, which comes from the Friuli in northeastern Italy, specifically a zone called Latisana, which dates at least to the 11th century. The vineyard sits just 30 feet above sea level, the sea in this instance being the Adriatic. One almost has a foot in Slovenia. Pinot Grigio, a/k/a Pinot Grigio or Grauburgunder, is a mutation of Pinot Noir, so some grapes (and the resulting wines, may come off coppery in color or even light pink. Not this one, which exhibit’s a medium deep greenish gold color. Aromas present well evolved white fruits, while the palate enjoys a refined mature fruit profile, good minerality and good acidity along with moderate alcohol (12.5%). Serve chilled, but not frosty, at about 55F/13C, and you’ll taste all the grape does it for you.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Taramosalata on unsalted potato ships; crab cakes, fried oysters, scallolps or calamari with lemon aïoli; sautéed mild white fish or fish & chips, with homemade tartar sauce; pasta salad with goat feta, sun-dried tomatoes and herbs; mild grilled, baked or sautéed fish with fresh herbs and lemon;; poached, chilled chicken breast with lemon aïoli or lighty curried mayonnaise; turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; creamy shrimp salad; smoked salmon salad; mild white rind cheeses (such as CalyRoad Creamery’s WayPointe, a cow’s milk camembert-style cheese made in Georgia).

Distributors:
Prime Wine & Spirits

$15.00

Tasting Note:
Arneis is a white wine grape that in times past was blended with Nebbiolo in the Piemonte, and after that practice was discarded, the grape nearly disappeared. But since the early 1990s, it’s been on a comeback, and now thrives in both the Roero and the Langhe, zones lying on opposite sides of the Tanaro River in the Piemontese province of Cuneo. Langhe is southeast of the river. Ready soon after being fermented in stainless steel, this dry, medium- to full-bodied white wine exhibits a lovely, bright greenish gold color. The aromas offer floral notes, while the palate savors well-evolved white fruit, chalky minerals and a long finish. Chilled to about 55-60F/13-15C, the wine does best in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Chicken pot pie; chicken liver mousse; turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; fettuccine al Alfredo with chicken; chickpea salad with feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; Vidalia onion quesadilla; onion pie; fried mac ‘n’ cheese; baked flounder stuffed with crab meat.

Distributors:
Artisan Vines

$17.00

Tasting Note:
A white wine grape, Petit Manseng comes chiefly from southwest France, where it produces the best white wine of any Manseng grape (there is also a Gros Manseng, for example). But it also is grown all the way across to the Languedoc The small, thick-skinned grapes it produces don’t yield a lot of juice, so the flavors tend to be intense. Late harvest versions are great for dessert. Basque immigrants took the grape to Uruguay, along with Tannat. Introduced into Virginia viticulture, it’s working its way south, and now has a new home at a duo of north Georgia wineries, including Cavender Creek. This example is a medium-bodied dry white wine showing a deep golden color. The aromas suggest spice and quince, and introduce intense golden fruit flavors, bringing back the quince and adding some brown spices to the profile. Serve it chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, and use a medium tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Exotic fare, such as curried chicken salad with green and red peppers; curried seafood (not too much heat, please); tandoori chicken; sweet potato or butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and toasted pine nuts.

Distributors:
Cavender Creek Vineyards

$26.00

Tasting Note:
Montravel is a sub-appellation of Bergerac, which lies immediately east of Bordeaux. The blend is typically a 50-50 union of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc fermented and aged in barrel., yet the wine is not overcome by the taste of wood.The medium-bodied dry white wine, with a delicate, floral nose, shows a medium yellow gold color. Melon and freshly cut herbs dominate the delicate scent, while fleshy, mouth-filling fruit defines what the palate will experience. The entire experience from start to finish, which is considerable, is clen and crisp. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Pasta with fresh herbs, mild cheese or olive oil and fresh herbs; fresh fish sautéed in butter and olive oil, with capers and lemon; CalyRoadCreamery’s (Sandy Springs) “Big Bloomy,” a white-rind goat cheese; grilled or baked shellfish with lemon; especially scallops.

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$22.00

Tasting Note:
From South Africa’s Western Cape (Overberg specifically), this rosé is made entirely from Shiraz, a grape that’s as important to South Africa as it is to Australia. The bright pink salmon color of the wine appeals to the eye, while the aromas hint at spice–even a bit of white pepper, a classic marker for Shiraz (Syrah)–accompanied by red fruits, especially strawberry and cherry. The palate follows suit, supplying a long and crisp strawberry experience, but reminiscent especially of wild strawberries. This is a dry rosé, and the Shiraz even leaves the sensation of tannin along the front teeth–just like a full-throated red wine. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C or maybe even a notch warmer.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Grilled shrimp with Creole rémoulade sauce, turkey picadillo; meatballs with tomato mushroom glaze; grilled ham steak; barbecue chicken; red beans and rice; Savannah red rice; chick pea salad with sun-dried tomatoes; tandoori chicken; barbecue beef or pork sliders with mild tomato-based sauce; fried or barbecued chicken; wings (not too hot), Korean and Chinese fare that’s not too spicy.

Distributors:
Bacco Fine Wine

$14.00

Tasting Note:
A few white wines can be cellared, among them Riesling. (Chenin blanc is another.) This is an excellent opportunity to taste a Riesling that has aged a bit and developed its profile. From Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, this 2009 Riesling, currently in the Atlanta market, shows a bright greenish straw color, and presents aromas that are classic Riesling, with lots of pear and spiced apple notes. The palate adds hints of quince, with mouthwatering acidity and good minerality. The petrol notes that typically emerge after some aging in Riesling aren’t yet evident here, but that’s ok for some consumers who don’t find that aspect of Riesling appealing. The rest of us will enjoy it now and wait for them to develop. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Cellar at 55F/13C for many more years, perhaps at least another decade.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Anything with mustard: Grilled bratwurst with caramelized onions and brown mustard; fish poached in beer and served with a mustard Béchamel; chicken thighs or breasts baked on top of Vidalia onions, garlic and sliced potatoes (a great dish for a party); sautéed ocean perch dusted in cornmeal and flour with tartar sauce; fish tacos; Persian chicken dishes on rice; avocado filled with poached chicken or shrimp salad; Thai fish dishes (if not too hot).

Distributors:
Artisan Vines

$20.00

Tasting Note:
If I’ve ever met a wine from Costière de Nîmes that I didn’t like, I’m in solid senior moment territory, because I don’t remember it. Wines from this ancient producing region were enjoyed by the Greeks, and the region is among the world’s oldest for viticulture. Once considered part of Languedoc-Roussillon, it was shifted to the Rhône in 2004 because it lies on the western side of that river and because the wines more closely resemble those of that AOC. Composed of Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre (20%), this example shows a beautiful medium salmon pink color. Aromas hint at red fruits with brown baking spices, a profile that continues on the palate. Clean, crisp and long finished, the wine offers ample opportunities for pairings with food. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Grilled shrimp with mildly spicy (not searing hot) Cajun rémoulade sauce; jambalaya; turkey pico de gallo; tacos and tamales; wraps; grilled wild-caught salmon (Copper River, now in season); pizza with mild sausage; pasta with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh herbs and feta cheese; barbecued chicken or shrimp; wings; grilled ham steak; Brunswick stew; smoked beef brisket.

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$14.00

Tasting Note:
I confess: I love Beaujolais–the place, the people, the wine, the landscape, the food, the air you breathe–you name it. The irreverent figure on the label of this example belies the seriousness of the winemaking philosophy at this house, and really almost everywhere you go in Beaujolais. Mostly made from Morgon, a cru of Beaujolais, and from vines that average 15 years, this is a light/medium bodied wine showing a bright garnet red color and offering aromas of fresh red fruit. Clean, sweet (not from sugar) fruit defines the palate. It’s simple, not complex, easy on the tannin. Alcohol is moderate, 12.5%. The wine is from the 2010 harvest–founder Marcel Lapierre’s last as he passed away thereafter, leaving duties to his son Mathieu–but it can’t be vintage dated as it’s a Vin de France (sort of like a Vin de Pay, but Beaujolais did away with that designation). So each year’s wine has a Roman numeral on the label to indicate the year in which the grapes were grown. Clever, huh? Serve cool, about 60F/15C in a medium-large tulip-shaped glass. And don’t wax intellectual over it either. Sit by the pool or on a park bench somewhere with a picnic lunch when you drink this, and don’t cellar it either.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Brunswick stew and barbecue; grilled or roasted chicken; hangar steak; lamb salad; pasta with black olives, feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; sandwiches and wraps; tamales; wings; turkey picadillo; meatballs in tomato sauce.

Distributors:
Northeast Wholesale

$13.00

Tasting Note:
This medium-bodied dry red wine (D.O.C. Garda) is made in a region of Lombardy whose winemaking history goes back to the Etruscans–in other words, it’s pre-Roman. Vineyards and olive trees throw a cover over the hills of this region, and both are important for the region’s agriculture. The grape varieties in this wine are traditional and native: Groppello (40%); Marzemino (20%), Sangiovese (20%) and Barbera (20%). You’ve likely heard of the latter two, but not the first two. Each contributes its own distinctive contribution to the whole. The blend composes a deeply colored, dark red wine (the Marzemino and Barbera grape types) with aromas of spice (the Groippello). The good acidity (Sangiovese and Barbera) and high-profile fruit character (Sangiovese) contribute to the wine’s food companionability. All the dark fruits–plums, black berries–benefit from the acidity. Serve moderately cool, about 65F/17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Silky-textured liver mousse; tacos filled with pork pibil or mole poblano; grilled meats; fried or barbecued chicken; grilled vegetables; vegetable lasagna (eggplant; zucchini; mushrooms; tomato); salami, pasta dishes with tomato, garlic and oilve oil.

Distributors:
Prime Wine & Spirits

$15.00

Tasting Note:
This stalwart red wine from the Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes in southeastern France has what it takes for grilling meats and vegetables outdoors. Made from Carignan (50%), Mourvèdre (25%) and Syrah (25%) grown on vines averaging a half century in age, this full-bodied dry red wine is bold but not choked with oak–it’s unoaked in fact–and only free-run juice is used. The wine shows an opaque garnet red color. Alcohol is substantial (14.5%), and the wine comes off a little hot, but the fruit isn’t impaired. Aromas suggest that herbal character that in this region is called “garrigue,” along with plenty of black fruit (black currant and black cherry). Tannins are soft. Cool the wine to about 65F/17C, and serve it in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Chunky, smoky Brunswick stew; barbecued chicken; smoked beef brisket (pulled and served on sliders); tacos filled with pork pibil (cooked in a banana leaf–specialty of the Yucatán); grilled meats of all kinds, but especially lamb, burgers and steak; grilled vegetables.

Distributors:
Prime Wine & Spirits

$17.00

Tasting Note:
Lying about an hour south of California’s capital, Sacramento, Lodi isn’t one of the state’s “glamor” wine growing regions. For decades, though, It grew grapes for the stars, among them Robert Mondavi. In recent times, the region has stepped out on its own, producing some very good wines, but still best known for Zinfandel. Zinfandel tends to be an over-the-top wine, often quite alcoholic with levels rivaling the alcoholic strength of fortified wines. This example, however, comes in around 14%, moderate for most Zinfandels. Vinified in French and American oak barrrels, it shows little of the “boubonish” character one finds in so many, and none of the artificial vanilla extract or heavy caramel character imposed by American oak. Deeply colored, with an opaque purple red color, the wine offers a fresh fruit character that is not often found in Zinfandel, which instead often tends toward dried or cooked fruit flavors. Black fruit characters abound in both aromas and flavors. Tannins are well resolved and silky, and the wine is pretty well balanced, with sweet dark fruits closing the deal. Cool room temperature works best for this one, about 65-65F/13-17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass.

Suggested Food Pairings:
Rough-textured terrines or meat pies; grilled meats (especially lamb, duck, game, steak); Southern barbecue (ribs; pulled pork; barbecued chicken); tamales filled with mole poblano or tacos with pork pibil; black bean cakes; burgers; dark chocolate-covered espresso beans. The winery suggest chocolate-flavored breakfast cereal, but somehow there’s a timing factor to that one that just doesn’t square.

Distributors:
Big Boat Wine Co.

$19.00